Nomads, day 3 and 4 (9/5/2023)

We made it to the Lewis and Clark trail. A quick summary to start:

Day 3: Dr. Emmit Babbler Memorial Campground – Hermann – Swiss Meat & Sausage Company – Jefferson – Columbia – St. Joseph – Big Lake State Campground.

Day 4: Big Lake State Campground – Loess Hills Wildlife Refuge – Brownville, NE – Nebraska City – Winnebago Indian Reservation – Omaha – North Sioux City, SD.

As you can see, two long days. We arrived at our camp site around 7 p.m. on day 3, and around 6 p.m. at the motel on day 4. Yes, we had nice side trips at Clark’s Hill and the Wildlife Refuge on day 4. The refuge is huge and if you come at the right time, it should be chockablock with ducks, swans and cranes. For us the idea of loss is neat; it is a soil type formed from volcanic ash that was deposited thousands of years ago. It is usually yellow in color and extremely fertile. The loess deposits in these hills are among the deepest in the U.S.A. Both of us being schooled in soil science, this was a place to stop and explore. We saw a little bit but spent most of our time driving the 10-mile loop in the refuge. This had a mixture of wetland habitat and prairie. All very interesting to us, as well.

However, let’s start at the beginning of our trip. I had the initial idea to make our day 2 camping spot in Hermann, they have a city park open to campers. However, we decided to stay at the Babbler campground. In hindsight this appeared to be a good decision. Once in Hermann, we could not locate the city park. Hermann is a great tourist town on the Missouri and surprisingly on our way there, the road was littered with the “you are on the Lewis and Clark trail” signs. However, as of this writing, those signs kept pursuing us, indicating we are on the right trail.

After driving to Hermann and seeing what a tourist trap that was, we decided to aim for Jefferson City, figuring that we could put of our need for lunch and a bathroom break that long. However, just outside Hermann we hit the sausage factory. The decision was made to buy something for breakfast the next morning. We did not realize what we about to step into, a virtual meat market with all kinds of sausage concoctions and bacon. They also had a lunch counter, so that was easy. The problem as usual was the doggies and 95 degree temperatures; they don’t mix. We ate lunch in the van, and on we went. The road was absolutely fun, a small winding country road. One thing about this part of Missouri were all the wineries. I had tasted wines from the region in the mid-1990s and they were not bad then, but this turn we had no time to taste.

After stopping at Clark’s Hill (see below) and later in Jefferson City for our required visit to Starbucks, we pressed on. Mostly interstate highway driving, until we needed to get on the backroads to Big Lake State Park. The last part of the drive was flat. Fascinating was when we got off the highway and dove into the floodplain of the Missouri. It is huge in that part of this world. There were all kinds of reminders of the flood back in the 1800s. Big Lake looks like it was an old oxbow of the Missouri River that had been cut off a long time ago. When booking, little did we realize what a resort area this area was. Except for the state park, the lake was surrounded by vacation homes and the lake was full on pontoon boats and jet skis. This was a party park, all kinds of watercrafts; dogs were running lose, with some dog poop to step into. Getting that in the van required a cleaning effort that put us to sleep late. Rest rooms and showers were scarce at the park, but we knew we had a motel room the next night and showers are overrated anyway.

After visiting the Loess Hills it was off to the Nebraska side of the river. Brownville is a cute, touristy town, but the ice cream shop was closed! Lunch in Nebraska City and I dare say that I now understand why my family likes this state and says it is pretty. We drove along the floodplain, corn and soy, all the way to Omaha. Starbuck stop there. Temperatures reached 108 degrees Fahrenheit (42 C). We got to the Hampton Inn in North Sioux City by 6:45. We had driven through Missouri, Nebraska, a sliver of Iowa into South Dakota. A trip that Lewis and Clark took a half year to cover was done in a fairly fast pace by us.

Our only other dedicated stop was Clark’s Hill. This hill is located just east of Jefferson City. Clark walked up for a view of the river. He discovered three Indian mounts on the hill, which remain there until this day. Our overall impression of this leg of the trip was that it fascinated us to see the transition from an area dominated by wooded areas to an area dominated by agriculture land (most of it in corn and soybeans). We were both schooled in the agronomy side of life, with a side of ecology. So, you can imagine our enjoyment of looking at the landscape passing by the van.

The view from Clark's Hill.

Our dog Radar waiting for the sun to set.

A random view of Nebraska

The Nebraska floodplains, as flat a a pancake, stark but somehow nice at least in our eyes.

Nomads, day 1 and 2 (9/3/20213)

We are on our way! Leaving home this past Thursday it felt like the good old days driving to work in Richmond. The notable exception was that almost immediately when we hit the interstate we had to slow down to a crawl and spend 45 minutes on what we usually can cover in 10 minutes. Oh well, a conspicuous start to a trip like this. After that it was relatively smooth sailing to our first-day destination Cave Run Lake, Kentucky. I had booked a camp site at the Twin Knob Campground in the Daniel Boon State Forest. We hit a lot of road construction in West Virginia and Kentucky, probably all thanks to the Biden money.

The first part of our route felt very familiar. Interstate 64 or I-64 is a highway I frequently traveled for work, at least all the way to the town of Lexington. In that area the highway turns rights towards the West Virginia line. Knowing that we were eventually going to be helped captive by the famous (at least to us) toll road section that dives down from Beckly to the capitol of Charleston and its gasoline and restaurant plazas, we decided to fill up before crossing the state line. I love stopping in Covington, in particular since one of my ex-students manages the local stormwater program there. When I retired, she was one of the few who emailed me and told me that I was the best teachers she had ever had. It is always nice to thank them with little sales tax we are able leave behind there.

Twin Knob Campground near Morehead, KY was a pleasant surprise. It was a joy camping there. So much of a pleasure that we decided that we did need to return there one of these days for a more extended stay. It’s a full day’s drive, but doable. The campground is located on a small peninsula in Cave Run Lake (reservoir). The lake is huge and appears to be stocked with fish; we drove by a fish hatchery near the dam that controls the water level in the lake.

We had a nice walk on a trail along the lake. Issues included the abundance of poison ivy and the fact that I tripped and fell. This was scary; I had broken my left wrist a few years ago; however, when I fell on that side this time, I was able to protect my wrist. Thank goodness I just scaped my elbow and my wrist hurt a bit but was ok. The moon was great that night and we went to sleep with is shining on me while laying my self down. The eastern screech owl was calling that evening, making it even more magical. The next day we did a two-and-a-half-mile hike before jumping back on I-64 on our way to St. Louis.

We had the Dr. Edmund A. Babbler Memorial State Park on our radar. This park is some 20 or so miles west of St. Louis and it is truly a more urban state park at the outskirts of a very wealthy neighborhood. Camping was an experience in this park. The site we were on was a concrete pad which was nice; however, our neighbors were very cut loose, and it was intimate. Thank goodness, the folks next to us were nice and invited us to join them at their campfire and after dinner we had a nice time talking with them about their jobs, our past jobs and retirement. They actually served on an Air Force installation near where we live and it was nice to talk with them about that.

My impression of the first two days is a lot of highways, and even more construction being conducted on these roads; a sign to me that Washington money is trickling down. But it makes the drive a bit more cumbersome and slows you down. Secondly, we seemed to drive through Indiana and Illinois without spending any money in these states. Lastly, I personally found that parts of southern Indiana and Illinois reminded me of driving through the Netherlands. It was flat with hedgerows, church steeples and farm buildings in the distance.

Well, a somewhat boring report of our travels, no terrible insights or thoughts. Just us beelining Missouri where the actual Lewis and Clark journey starts.

We are on our way.  Good bey Virginia, see you in a few!

The lake and location where I tripped and lost my dignity and scraped my elbow.

Hello Missouri! (Picture taken by Donna Briede)

Our second evening out.  In the St. Lewis area (Dr. Edmund Babbler SP, I really need to research who this Babbler is, I had never heard of him before).

Nomadic life will continue (8/21/2023)

It has been a few weeks since I checked in here on my blog, but so be it. I can notice that my readership has declined somewhat during these past two months, but maybe I can atribute that to the vacation that many are having, my retirement, and all the things going on in my life. For one we had some major structural work done in our home. This cost gobs of money, but we justified it by the fact that we are healthy, plan to live here for at least another 10 to 15 years, and it would increase the value of our home. It may in the long run even save us money.

But this is not what I want to write about. I am writing to forewarn you, my dear readers, that the nomad will be resuming his nomadic lifestyle during the month of September. We are planning a trip across the country to attend to family festivities in California. Yes, we will be doing this with our camper van, the Ford Transit, that we recently purchased from friends. I already wrote about some dress rehearsal camping trips here and here.

The trip is estimated to take two weeks to travel from the east to the west coast. After the festivities we will need to return home and we have no idea yet how long we will be taking to accomplish that or the route. Naturally, I will try to write about our trip (both going and returning); maybe not a daily report, but I hope to write a regular dispatch from the road. I really hope to give you all an idea of what we are experiencing and how I am feeling. It will include reviews of the places (camping areas) we stay; places we visit; walks and hikes we do; restaurants we eat at; maybe some microbreweries or wineries; or even some knitting shops.

Are we preparing? Yes, we are! On our way out west we are planning to roughly follow the Lewis and Clark trail, at least to the Montana-Idaho border, or the source of the Missouri river before turning south towards the Los Angeles area. I have been reading various books including the book by Stephen E. Ambrose entitled “Undaunted Courage, Meriwether Lewis, Thomas Jefferson and the Opening of the American West,” Julie Fanselow’s “Traveling the Lewis and Clark Trail,” and Alain de Botton’s “The Art of Travel.” As you can see, I always have a number of books open, but that’s me. I have been booking camp sites and figuring out the best routes to drive. We’ll try to stay away from the interstate highways once we reach St. Louis, the “official” start of the trail.

We have given ourselves 14 days to get across; however, there are a lot of unknowns. Of course there is hurricane season. We really wondered why the festivities were planned at the height of this time of year. Twenty years ago, our area was hit by hurricane Isabel on September 18, and our party is on September 16 in LA. Our area sustained major damage as a result of Isabel’s passing; we lost electricity for 13 days. Hurricanes have been in the back of our mind ever since during the month of September and leaving home that month is somewhat scary. In addition, leaving my bonsai trees for more than a few days worries me somewhat, although I have an automated watering system and my neighbor Bob promised he would keep an eye on them.

A final item is of course not knowing what to expect in the northern states. This includes the weather and animals like bears. Will it be cold in Montana, will we be bugged by grizzlies? Yes, I already loaded a space heater, which will only work when we have shore power, and I bought bear spray. Reading accounts about van-life in Reddit, I learn that van floors are notoriously cold and poor Radar (our dog) who sleeps on the floor was already shivering when the outside temperatures dipped below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. But then today it is 102 degrees in North and South Dakota.

All this thinking and anticipation reminds me a little of what I read in The Art of Travel about that subject. Botton writes about de Esseintes, a character in J.K. Huysman’s 1884 novel A Rebours who was a great armchair traveler full of anticipation but was bitterly disappointed when reaching his destination and almost immediately returned home without completing his planned visits. In other words, we will see how this will all pan out. I am sure that there will be days when we will be disappointed, and days when we will be ecstatic; tired days and days that we want to keep going. After our 6 days of camping in July we felt great and were ready for more. So hopefully this will be fine too. Stay tuned.

The rear of the van has been decorated.  If you are a reader on the trail we are following and you see these decals, come and say hello.

Bonsai lessons (8/7/2023)

I had the pleasure the other day to have a grandmother and her grandson over to look at my bonsai trees. The grandmother is a friend from the yacht club, and she had heard that I grow bonsai. Her teenage grandson had tried to grow a bonsai from seed; however, it never germinated. We had already made two appointments, but they never panned out, and this time they were 30 minutes early.

It was fun to be back somewhat in the teaching mode. We started out looking at my 35-year-old Siberian elm, this is one of my favorite trees and it is in quarantine. The quarantine is not because of disease or something like that, but somehow when it is on the tables where I keep my trees, the Japanese beetles find it and it seems that only hit my three Siberian elms. I have a stand of canna lilies nearby and they are a favorite of these ferocious insects in my yard. But somehow when I move them away from my tables and the lilies, these elms are more or less safe from these bugs.

Walking around the tables and showing them my little trees was a lot of fun. The kid was very inquisitive, and grandma could not get him away from the place. He seemed particularly impressed by the tree (cherry) which I had to go at with a saw-saw or hacksaw. The root was simply too big. Grandma was impressed with my American hollies; she hates those prickly leaves. Fun was talking about my citrus trees that I grew from seed. As I told them anything is possible, with a little knowledge.

We talked about styles; how to miniaturize the leaves; root pruning; best time of year to work on them; pots; and of course, soils and fertilizer. I have written about this before, but it seems that everybody wants to buy a bonsai tree or has bought one once in their life. I think at least 95% of them invariably die within the first few months.

Most of this is soil related, the trees at the big box stores usually come in crappy soil in pots that don’t drain very well. The result is root rot when the temperatures rise in the pots, and they do not drain. Plants die or at least get weak. What to do? Repot? If you do that, you kill the poor guy. No, we just need to make sure we do not over or under water too much and we might want to protect the container from overheating. Additional issues seen is the lack of light. Folks put their first bonsai inside on the coffee table. However, it was an outdoors tree that likes full sunlight. Death is imminent. Finally, folks may start pruning or shaping to quickly and weaken the tree.

We talked for over an hour and a half. It was fun talking about my trees and what I do with them, my plans and more. It was just plain fun interacting with someone who was interested in my hobby and sharing these things with him. It made me feel good for the rest of the day.

The lower trunk of my Siberian elm.  It is approximately 35 years old and was developed from seed.  In the soils post that I have link to above, there is another picture of it.  This tree has gone all over the country with me and has been ignored for a while.  It is finally on a decent trajectory.

This is the cherry that I got earlier this year.  It was a thick stick in a pot with a horrible root.  I used the hack saw to cut 2/3rds of it and planted in an Anderson flat.  It seems to be doing well.  I have no idea what styling decisions I will make in the near future but will probably have to cut it shorter.

One of my hollies.  Maybe not really visible.  It has been in a pot ffor at least 7 years, I dug it up in my yard.

The citrus plants grown from seed.  This is their second summer, and they are enjoying themselves.  I have a few oranges and lemons, all grown from seeds.

Are we part of a holobiont? (7/29/2023)

If you haven’t been living in a hole in the ground, you must have heard about the word or concept called microbiome. Microbiome is defined as the community of microorganisms that exists in a particular environment. These can include fungi, bacteria, other singular cellular organisms and even viruses. When we look at us humans these are our gut bacteria and everything else that is down or better in there. Moreover, it seems that even our hands, our body and every other part of our body have a unique microbiome. The microbiome on our left hand might even differ from that on our right hand. Being a baker, I listened to a podcast on sourdough breads and it seems that every sourdough baker has a microbiome on their hands that is unique to the sourdough starter they use.

The microbiome seems to be responsible for a lot of things in our life including gut health; our resistance to diseases; dementia at older age; and even our mental health. It appears we have more (micro)organisms in our gut microbiome than cells in our body. We are what is considered by some scientists a holobiont.

A holobiont is defined as an assemblage of a host and the many other species living in or around it, which together form a discrete ecological unit. In other words, we as individual humans and our microbiome together are holobionts. There is still some controversy about this concept of holobiont and even my spell checker does not know the word yet.

What medical science is slowly telling us is that if our microbiome is off, we get in all kinds of trouble. The simple issue maybe diarrhea or other stomach upset. It may include weight loss or conversely in folks who suffer from obesity. As I mentioned above, it seems that Alzheimer can even be linked to our microbiome being out of balance, or at least it can excel the mental decline or onset of dementia in some. We can change our microbiome with the food we eat, and this is where the concept of not “not every calorie is the same” comes from. We are hopefully also all learning about probiotics (fermented foods rule), prebiotics, and now even post-biotics. All parts of a healthy nutrition that is good for gut health. Folks with CDIF (or Clostridium difficilus), a very virulent bacterial infection may even require a fecal or poop transplant to get a healthy microbiome from someone else implanted in their gut. Which might be the only way to shake this disease.

Anyway, I want to stop here, and write more about the concept of holobiont. This idea, an assemblage of a host and other species living together in some form of harmony is interesting to me and to a lot of scientists. I think this is what makes it so darn controversial. One of the reasons is that if we look at it on a large scale, we can look at an island or even the Earth as a holobiont as well, and that everything living on this earth are part of that assemblage. Ah, we are quickly entering the world of Gaia and I think this is where the whole concept of holobiont runs into trouble. Gaia is more metaphysical; it seems to be more the believe in the divine personification of the Earth and the matriarch of all things in existence. Modern pagans believe Gaia is the Earth and she is the spiritual embodiment of the Earth. In other words, scientist that consider the Earth a holobiont are skating on thin ice and can be accused of being pagans or some other form of religious heretics.

However, the concept is an interesting one. Like our gut with diarrhea, the earth can also get or be out of balance when the assemblage of species gets out of balance. An interesting concept isn’t it? It is somewhat Malthusian, but I am beginning to believe that we are exceeding the carrying capacity of the earth; the carrying capacity is the number of individual humans the earth can safely handle before things go awry. In my eyes, we humans could be considered the E. coli of even CDIF of the Earth. There are just too many of us, and the Earth is sick! That is what I think we are seeing, global warming, the weather is going bonkers; everything seems out of balance. Even today there was a report that the gulf stream that keeps western Europe warm may be diminishing and put Europe in an eventual deep freeze. Strange days indeed! Have we reached the point of no return? I don’t know, only time will tell.

During our hike last week we encountered communities like this.  Although not a holobiont, the lichen on the rock are a perfect union of algae and fungi living together in perfect harmony.  In addition I just loved the community of plants.  This was in Grayson Highland State Park.