Highland and Bath Counties (7/11/2015)

Somewhere at home I have a map of the US on which I colored in all the counties that I have set foot in.  There are just a few states that are completely white: I have never been in North Dakota, Nevada, Alabama, Wisconsin, and Rhode Island.  Boy, how is that for an eclectic mix?  There are very few states where I have filled in all counties: Delaware, Maryland, New Jersey, Ohio, and Virginia.  I miss one county in New Mexico.

The variety is amazing, and that is what makes this country so great.  I really can not tell you what's the best or the worst; really they are all unique in their own way.  I enjoyed Eunice , Louisiana in Acadia Parish  (that's what they call counties there), but is it the best place I've ever been?  Not really, I just remember it since it was a lot of fun.  But so was Summit County Colorado where I climbed Grays Peak a 14,278 foot peak in the Colorado Rockies and stayed overnight in Keystone and watched people getting mountain sickness.  I also really love where we currently live: York County, or McKinley County in New Mexico where we used to live, or even Hamilton County, Ohio.

This weekend we revisited a county we dearly love: Highland County; we stayed at a B&B there, but if you want fine dining, you have to go south, into Bath County, to either Warm Springs or Hot Springs.

The first full day in Highland County was somewhat rainy with temperatures in the low 70s.  What a difference from the mid 90s at home.  I took this photograph around 10 in the morning, and where else can you find highland cattle in the fog (clouds) but in Highland County.

Driving through Bath County, in particular, I am always amazed by the juxtaposition of poor (native) mountain living and (imported) opulence and the contrast it creates.  It is not pervasive, but it is obvious in some places.  In those instances you don't see the signs of what they call trickle down economics.  I'm sure that in some cases it is self imposed, but I figure that in other cases it could also be class warfare.

Both Warm Springs and Hot Springs fit that bill.   I assume that everyone has heard of the Hot Springs Homestead Resort.   It is an amazing place to see.  I am told the green fees for the golf course are just below $400 per person.   The homes around the resort are also amazing (worth at least a half million and up).  Going a few miles out of town, or even to the other side of town you see dilapidated buildings,  double-wide trailers, you name it.  Actually, we were amazed that in the middle of town the town parking area that doubles as farmer's market is full of pot holes filled with water and the sidewalks are bordered by foot high weeds.  There was a shift change at the resort when we were in town and there were a lot of young East-European workers walking down the street to their apartments in what I thought were abandoned or rundown storefronts.

The real estate offices were nicely spruced up, but even here, the public parking lots had weed growing in them and the green isles between the parking spaces were overgrown with weeds.  Really poor for a resort town. 

One wonders, places like the resort and the associated mansions and businesses are major tax payers and you would think that the country or town would have sufficient funds to spruce up the down town and make it attractive to visitors.  I would think that this would feed on each other, a nicer downtown would attract more visitors and sale taxes, and therefore more businesses, employ more people, who pay more taxes.  I know I am over simplifying it, but such a beautiful place could be even so much more beautiful and better.

Just an interesting view taken with my fish-eye lens.

Believe it or not, I really like Hot Springs and Bath County; I just think it could even be better!  We had a great time at the Sam Snead's Tavern.  They have some great food and a nice atmosphere.  A great place to hang out.  We had a wonderful visit.

York River (7/3/2015)

I'm currently reading a book called: "Blue Mind" by Wallace J. Nichols.  It's is a book on man's relationship with water in particular being near, in, on or under water and it's effect on the brain.  I just started it, so no review yet, but I like the premise.  It sure is calming and relaxing to me being on my boat, kayak or even just on the beach.

Well, since July 4th falls on a Saturday this year, we got a holiday on the Friday before.  Kind of on the spur of the moment we decided that it would be fun to take the kayaks out and go play on the water that way, instead of sailing.  It promised to be a gorgeous, somewhat cooler than average day, and checking the tides showed it was ideal to launch in Yorktown and explore the area west of the Coleman bridge along the Colonial Parkway.

The tide was coming in when we launched and it was a great help pulling us up river under the bridge.   The current can be treacherous around the docks which was one reason why we chose to stay relatively clear of the dock and wear life jackets.  Still it was a little bit like being in a washing machine;we got jostled around a bit, and the waves made no sense at all.  Thing calmed down once we passed the dock and the bridge.

Going along the shore we observed a bald eagle majestically sitting on a branch overlooking the river.  There was a water-man crabbing; and we said hello as he pulled up one of his "pots."  A little further we beached the kayaks and just enjoyed the empty beach and just sat in the shade of a large tree watching the river and the boats passing by.

Me on the beach (photo taken by Donna Briedé)

After the tide turned we returned to Yorktown.  During our trip back we saw more people fishing and we got to see the Alliance under full sail.   A fun day, that we celebrated with a pizza and a beer at the Beach Deli on our return to Yorktown.

It just occurred to me that I often write about "Nature Deficit Disorder" and here I'm writing about "Water Deficit Disorder."  When push comes to shove, it is really amazing to realize what we modern humans are potentially missing if we don't make an effort to reconnect with nature, be it green or blue!  I'm sure it will not create world peace, but reconnection with these basic items and living in the moment does the soul good.

Yorktown (6/29/2015)

So going to work on the boat we got stuck at the railroad overpass by a train with tanker cars.  The railroad is owned by CSX and serves the heavy industry in York County.  With heavy industry I am referring to our power station and what used to be the refinery.  Both are and have been changing a lot lately.

The power station is owned by Dominion, and it is my understanding that it is partially coal and partially natural gas.  From what I understand, it is or used to be one of the most polluting power stations on the east coast, and we know that!  After a few days without rain we have a (not so) nice, thin, black dusty coating on our white boats, and the only thing that could possibly contribute to that would be the power plant.  Hopefully it is not the hexavalent chromium that was found by the EPA in the waste site.  I also hope that they’ll make good on their promise and discontinue using coal.  But then they are complaining that they cannot generate enough electricity for the Peninsula and have to construct a power line over the James River, in view of historic James Town, but more importantly Kings Mill a neighborhood with million dollar homes.  Dominion is threatening rolling blackouts if they don’t get what they want.  It seems somewhat childish, but of course we the common/middle class man will be the victim.

There is one nice thing about the power station: it is a great beacon for us sailors.  If we aim for the smokestacks we know we are on our way home.  That time we sailed across the Bay it was a very clear day and we was able to see the stacks all the way from the eastern shore.

The refinery has been closed for some time, and the current owners have been retooling it as an oil storage and shipment facility.  CSX is the major transporter of heavy crude from the wells in North Dakota to the Yorktown facility.  We have heard of two major accidents in the past year.  Both of them, the one in West Virginia and the one in Lynchburg, involved CSX trains that were on their way to our sleepy county on the York River and Chesapeake Bay.   This was somewhat concerning to some of us because we had discovered some issues with a stream crossing in our county.  Finally after all the accidents, CSX fixed the problem.  The photograph above shows the railroad crossing, one of the big storage tanks, and a train on its way out of the refinery.  I assume it was empty and on its way back to North Dakota to pick up another load.  The tanker cars looked new (no graffiti), so hopefully they are the double walled type, although I am not sure if that would be any help if you roll down a cliff in the mountains. 

No real message here today, but just a record of some of the things that we saw over the weekend.  It illustrates how this little county, that we live in, is connected to the world (remember my post on the Dolly Sods?).  This interconnectedness includes the electricity that is generated in the county and its influence on the construction of power lines elsewhere, or even as far as North Dakota and exploding railroad cars in West Virginia and Lynchburg.  We are amazingly interconnected in this world and it feels like things that affect us in York County may have nationwide or maybe global impacts.  The photo below illustrates that as well.  It was taken a few weeks ago and shows the visit of the Hermione from France.  In front of it is a small cruise ship; I wonder if it’s visit was planned or if the passengers had a treat that they’ll remember for the rest of their lives, and most likely they will remember Yorktown as well.

Photo taken June 7, 2015.

Yorktown (6/25/2015)

I’ll be mixing work and pleasure in today’s blog entry.

The more southern part of York County or lower York County (we divide county into the lower and upper part, with the division being the Yorktown Naval Weapon Station) is very flat, and we experience a lot of flooding during heavy rainstorm events.  Flooding was so bad that the county started a Stormwater Advisory Committee (a citizens group), of which I was a long-term member.  We advised the county on where to invest in projects that improved the stormwater infrastructure.  We also served as a conduit between citizens and the county and developed a set of publications that citizens could use in managing stormwater in and around their homes and in their subdivisions.  Regretfully, the County Commissioners decided to disband the committee a few years ago, and I will not go into why they did that.

Fast forward to this week.  The county has been building this huge bioretention area near one of our high schools.  Bioretention areas are what they are called.  They store and retain stormwater in an area for some time to allow it to infiltrate into the soil.  Excess water is slowly released into a drainage way, creek, or stream.  The word bio stands for that there is some biology involved with all of this, and in stormwater that means plants.  The photo below shows the area just after it is planted.

Regular readers of my blog know that I teach all things stormwater in my current job.  Lately I have been teaching about plants that can be used in exactly these kinds of projects and I was encouraged to see what plant species they used in their planting.  Why plants?  Well, plants have all kinds of benefits: 

• they shade the water and keep it cooler compared to when it runs off a parking lot; 
• it slows the flow of the water down and allowing sediment to settle out; 
• plants assist in the settling and breakdown of pollutants and contaminants in the runoff; 
• plant roots open up the soil thus allowing for more infiltration and recharge of the groundwater;
•  plants bring oxygen into the soil which greatly enhances the breakdown of contaminants in the water; 
• wetland areas are among the most productive ecosystems in the world and are great in removing air pollutants and CO2 out of the air; and finally, 
• all these plants provide great habitat for all kinds of critters such as insects, amphibians, reptiles, birds and even mammals.  

The more diverse their plant selection was the better the chance is that some of these plants will survive, but also the more (different) critters it can support.

Another wonderful thing to see is that the bottom of the area is not flat and uniform.  You can see islands which will be flooded temporarily during a storm and some permanent pools (the darker areas).  This greatly enhances the diversity of the area and all those functions I talked about above.

Why is this so important that I run around the state to teach it?  Well, in the old days when there were less people and less impervious areas such as roads, roofs, parking lots, sidewalks and driveways in our country, rainwater was able to infiltrate into the soil and recharge the groundwater table.  Nowadays, we are pumping the groundwater faster than rainfall can recharge it.  In addition all that rainwater runs off as stormwater and because it did not infiltrate the amount of water that runs off has greatly increased.  Streams cannot handle all this water and we see increased flooding, erosion in streams and increase damage to the stream banks.  All these bioretention areas and stormwater ponds are designed to lower the impact of development, decrease flooding as much as possible, clean up water and recharge the groundwater.

Fredericksburg and the events that happened this week (6/22/2015)

It was my birthday this past Thursday (18th) and I was really looking forward to it.  This was not because I would be a year older on the calendar (maybe not wiser), but because the pope was going to publish his encyclical on climate change on the 18th; something important for the world.  I thought that is was so cool that this would take place on my birthday.  Moreover, I finished my book about the sixth extinction which in a way is very disturbing.  The Sixth Extinction has me appreciate life; the book taught me that I should be living in the moment since changes are inevitable and that they will be occurring rapidly.  Yes, everything will be changing, and most likely for the worst.   I often think of the time we used to work and live in East Africa in the late 1970s.  Back then we already realized we might be the last generation to see the rhino in the wild.

In addition to these thoughts, I had visited Fredericksburg that week to teach two classes.  I had come out the class on a high.  Again, I got a standing ovation after teaching, which made me feel embarrassed and really happy at the same time.  I teach to educate and not for applause.  I really try to teach people respect for nature and the ecology of the area we live in.  On my birthday, someone wrote the following review of me on my LinkedIn page: "Jan is a knowledgeable person and a great teacher and has a true respect for the environment!"  As you can see these are all reasons of my interest in the encyclical.

Sitting on the 5th floor in my motel room on the 16th I could see the huge thunderstorms building in the area, and I hoped to capture one of them with the Rappahannock River in front of it, as you seem I was able to capture exactly what I had hoped.  This photograph was taken downtown from a bridge over the river.  Again I had this feeling of love and appreciation of what life or nature was giving me: the simple beauty and being in the moment.  Traveling can be lonely,  but it can be full as well if you appreciate the beauty, live in the moment and try to explore.  The second one is a scene from downtown, sitting at a coffee shop after dinner.  Just fun, watching people stroll by.  One woman was discussing with her husband how many steps she had on her fitbit.  People watching is my favorite!  It's a shame that some of these places downtown close by 8, but then the University is out and most of the students probably went home for the summer.

Little did I know what was to transpire driving back from Fredericksburg the next day.

Waking up the morning of my birthday I was greeted by news of another mass killing; now in one of my favorite cities: Charleston, SC.   I am so angry about the murder in Charleston that there is no way for me to express that.  I agree with John Steward that describing it in such terms as terrible takes it away from the fact that it is something much bigger.  The hatred by groups in our society must end.  We spent trillions on fighting terrorism directed at us from the outside without dealing with it from inside our country.

It is amazing and such a shame that the pope's important message is being hijacked by the murder, and then see the wing nuts on the right trying to steer the attention of their conservative buddies (we don't want to talk gun control or examine the undercurrent of racial hatred) away from the murder back on the pope.  The right wing fringe (wing nuts) call the pope names and say he is a "wolf in popes clothing" and worse.  One hate crime is not enough and they are already motivate their fans into hating others (Catholics?) and this hatred inevitably leads to crimes.  I have written about this some other times as well (see also this post, and some of the other posts of mine with the label tolerance).

The pope's message has little to do with me, except that I - a non-catholic - was looking forward to hearing what he had to say in the encyclical. Truthfully, I am reading it right now, and the pope is not as nuts as they make him out to be.  But again, it does not take away from last week's horrible news, we need to fight racism and preach tolerance.